Rogan art: a Journey into luxury
A research study of a craft practiced in India, with potential as a luxury experience.
Rogan art or Rogani Kaam is an extremely skillful painting done on fabrics, practiced by the Khatri family in Nirona, Kutch. It is an idiosyncratic narrative of a union of civilizations in the heritage of India. The origin of the craft dates back to several centuries and it traveled to India with the Afridis from Syria via Persia and Pakistan, and eventually settled in Kutch.
The animal herding community in the region embellished cotton and wool fabrics with Rogani Kaam, principally for the bridal trousseau. With the advent of mechanized systems to manufacture clothing, its practice and consumption were reduced.
Tourism was not so common in Kutch in the 20th century. However, it gained humongous traction due to development campaigns in the region, after the Bhuj earthquake in 2001 which affected the lives of about 1 million population. It attracted the attention of international and national tourists, who appreciated the craft culture of Kutch.
The Khatri community residing in Nirona village are expert artisans, who have been practicing this art form for ages. The artisans do not go through any formal training. The expertise in process, designs, and aesthetics is inherited and passed on to every generation.
Rogan is now identified as an exclusive art form of the region, as it fascinated the eyes & mind of the viewer with the process and dramatic hand movements of the creator.
The technique
According to Gafoorbhai Khatri, an ace artisan, the Rogan art of painting is over four hundred years old. The traditional motifs and designs exhibit a Persian influence. The word Rogan itself has a Persian root, meaning oil-based.
The process begins with the preparation of the colored paste. Castor oil is used as a base. It needs to be heated over fire for more than twelve hours for three days and cast into cold water, to produce the thick residue called Rogan. The thick paste is then mixed with colored pigments obtained from the minerals. These colored pastes are kept in earthen vessels with water to keep them moist. A thin iron rod ie. the stylus, which is flat on both ends, is used to paint on the fabric surface.
A blob of desired shade is smeared on the artisan’s palm using the stylus. It needs a little slathering and stretching to smoothen the texture of the paste. This step is critical as it allows flexibility of application on the fabric. This versatility of the colored paste empowers the artisan to create life-size motifs with intricate details.
Rogan painting requires concentration as it is done without any table support and outlines. It is entirely created without any reference, and solely with one’s creative imagination.
The Rogan artist carefully works on a quarter of rectangular fabric with a thick outline, which when folded from the middle effectively stamps the design on the remaining three-fourths of the cloth.
Craft attributes ~ pièce de résistance
The richness of textile, craft and embellishments found in India is beyond any academic documentation. Here is an attempt to describe the magnificence and perceived value of Rogani Kaam.
Rarity
Rogani Kaam is currently practiced and preserved only by the Khatri family. The knowledge about the techniques and recipe of making the colored paste is limited within the family itself and not disclosed in the public. Only a restricted number of people outside the family are taught painting skills for the sustenance of the craft. This makes the craft totally exquisite.
There are many other crafts in India, in which surfaces are painted or printed, such as Kalamkari, Madhubani, Ajrakh, Warli, etc. But Rogani Kaam is completely different from the rest because here, the tip of the stylus carrying the colored paste does not touch the surface. Motifs are drawn with the stylus in the air, gliding above the fabric and guided by the other hand of the artisan moving under the fabric. This imbibes the characteristic of rarity to the craft.
Excellence
Artisans practicing Rogani Kaam carry the legacy of skills and have earned them with decades of practice. The final result we get to see is a combination of an artisan’s functional abilities, perseverance, motivation, imagination and work ethics. Had there been any kind of tampering with these standards, it would have been impossible to get a glimpse of pieces and techniques in fine condition from the bygone era. The colored paste unifies with the fabric with time, making it lasting and indelible.
Expensiveness
A product’s expensiveness does not justify it being a luxury. But conversely, all luxury products are expensive. Expensiveness strengthens its uniqueness and singularity and gives reason to believe that the product delivers excellence. Merchandise with Rogan painting technique tends to fall above the premium price range, due to the required time & efforts in making.
Timelessness
Rogan painting is an inherited skill, dating back to about 400 years. The knowledge behind the craft we see today is timeless and will be everlasting through the Khatri family. With time, this craft required to change the end-use and user group for its own survival. This helped it to become a timeless piece of luxury, meant to be cherished and treasured.
Honest
The craft has acquired the attention of art and lifestyle connoisseurs. Its distinctiveness in terms of the technique is so effective, that it does not require huge advertisement campaigns to chase the audience.
Unlike other craft techniques, Rogani Kaam does not face imitation issues due to its unique design language. One can either buy and experience the art piece from the Khatri family in Nirona or source it via authorized and trusted suppliers. Thus, the entire supply chain remains transparent.
Tailored
A piece of Rogani Kaam is entirely created through the artist’s imagination and it reflects on the fabric. As mentioned earlier, it boasts a unique design language. It is not industrially produced but carries the emotions and sentiments of a human mind. The magical skill behind the creation ultimately makes it feel specifically designed and bespoke.
Pleasurable
Rogan paintings have been adorned on the walls of the White House. The Tree of Life painting not just marks its tactile presence, but also the emotional value of possessing a craft that elicits status and power.
Experiential
We now have an idea about the worth of Rogan art. The craft unveils an immersive experience right from its awareness, to making to its consumption. It signals affluence and is about the little things that leave an outsized impression.
Conjecture
Indian craft economy has sufficient potential to cater to the needs of the luxury market. The organic methods of market reach need to be reconsidered as opportunities, rather than a weakness. A system thinking approach might help to eliminate the existing challenges faced by the artisans and consumers.
Rogani Kaam well deserves recognition and appreciation from the local market for its overall experiential value and luxury association.
